We awoke to the sounds of drums as the town of Florence was preparing for the La Festa di San Giovanni, their patron saint - St. John the Baptist. From our window we could see colorful groups in traditional dress parading down various streets.  The Italians love their saints so we knew there would be more later.  After breakfast we boarded the bus and our first stop was the Florence American War Memorial and Cemetery. On the rolling hillside of the cemetery, over 4000 graves are arranged in curved rows honoring those who gave their lives in the Italian campaign of WWII. The memorial building at the top of the hill hosted the names and a magnificent display of mosaics. Surprisingly, remains continue to be discovered across Italy and transported here after research and authentication. Art comes in many forms -  this calm and serene memorial touched all of us with a feeling of respect and gratitude. 

After another scenic bus ride, we arrived at Castillo di Verrazzano in Tuscany. The vineyard is absolutely beautiful:  buildings, wine cellars, gardens and a spectacular view of the Tuscany Wine Country.  Our tour guide gave us a good understanding of the grapes grown, the barrels used, and the wine stored until their corks are ready to be popped. Our wine-tasting lunch was delizioso! Five wines (red, white and rose) were paired with salad, pasta, meat, cheese, and biscotti. A first for me was the cheese dipped in the best balsamic vinegar I ever tasted. No pressure to purchase anything but I knew I couldn't leave Italy without that balsamic vinegar. Mouth- wateringley good. 

Back in Florence, the holiday festivities were in play. Since La Festa di San Giovanni is a public holiday, some shops were closed and the streets were lined with spectators. In the square we watched the colorful procession of different groups performing in their costumes. Their music serenaded us during our stop for a light meal in the Piazza Santa Maria Novella.

As the sun went down, we observed many people headed to the Orno River to watch the feast day finale -fireworks. But lucky us, we had a grand view from our hotel window as the sky lit up and music floated through the air. Bravo Bravo. 

 We have a wonderful view from our hotel window. As we awoke to get ready for the day, so did the city. Streets swept, shop windows washed and early bird tourists mingling with locals going to work. After breakfast, we took a walking tour to get oriented to our Florence neighborhood. Those interested in shopping (count me in), had an opportunity to visit Peruzzi’s Leather Factory before its official opening. Without a crowd of shoppers, we were given an overview of what was available in this gorgeous two-floor gallery, and individual attention for our shopping pleasures. The first leather jacket that was modeled was a good fit and good price for me. I'm sure there was some fast talking about discount and tax-refund, but the look, feel, and price tag of the leather jacket seemed just right for me. Carta di Credito to the rescue. 

Lunch in Piazza della Signoria, some window-shopping, the best gelato, and then back to hotel to regroup for afternoon's guided art tour. We had an enthusiastic, passionate guide for this tour. He mingled art history with church beliefs leading to how the Renaissance opened up minds and hearts to view humanity as a work of divine art 

The Franciscan Basilica di Santa Croce houses priceless art and the tombs   of many distinguished Italian citizens, including: Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, and Rossini. The art and architecture pay tribute to the innovations and discoveries in art, music, science and literature. 

From there we walked to the Bargello which was once a prison but now   functions as the National Museum of Sculpture. Our focus was on early works of Michelangelo and those "non-finito." 

Then to the much-awaited Academia Gallery to view, explore and understand the story of  Michaelangelo's David, the imposing marble masterpiece of the Renaissance. Magnifico!

After a busy day with a lot of walking, we relaxed and enjoyed a fabulous dinner at the beautiful Sabatini's Restaurant - delicious food, great presentation, and personalized service. Tutto bene. Then back to hotel for nightcaps and sweet dreams.  

Saying goodbye to Sorrento was bittersweet. We had such a wonderful time here: hopping to nearby islands and ruins, sharing extraordinary meals, attending theater, and getting to know each other while traveling on bus and boat. But, Florence is on the horizon. 

It was a long bus ride from Sorrento to Florence. We stopped once for a caffe, and then for lunch at an amazing bus service center. When we arrived at our Hotel, we were greeted with high style hospitality; a reception room replete with refreshments as we waited to get keys to our rooms. Then time to freshen up for dinner at  Restaurant "La Loggia" where we enjoyed aperitifs, music, and some dancing on a spacious porch with an amazing view of the city before our meal was served.

Back at the hotel, nightcaps and review of the days ahead. Buonanotte. A domani . 

Beauty intensifies itself with each new day. Today was listed as a day of leisure with no group events but rather with options to fit the mood and energy levels for each of us. Some chose to stay and explore Sorrento at their own pace and others chose to visit the Isle of Capri. I joined the latter and, after a quick boat ride, we arrived with anticipation and some disappointment. The Blue Grotto was off limits due to choppy waters. So...when life give you lemons, there's always an opportunity for limoncello. 

We used our unexpected free time to travel by bus up the zigzag road leading to Anacapri, the town on the uppermost part of the island which has its own mayor, its own history, and its own less-crowded charms. We met a man dressed in Roman garb who told us he was on his way to a wedding being celebrated in Roman style. The shops displayed beautiful and colorful goods, many of which were handmade. The air was crisp and the sweet smell of  lemons wafted through the crisp air. Anacapri had the look and feel of a village.

Capri, the mid level and more populous city on the Island Capri had the Piazzetta at its center.  Luxury boutiques showcased latest fashions, but heeding Antonella's advise, we deferred our shopping and first enjoyed a walking tour amid homes, outdoor art, gardens, and beautiful scenery. After a wonderful lunch (I'll never tire of these fresh ingredients and just-right seasoning), we had time to shop before heading down to the Grand Marina, the busy port for ferry boats transporting the day-timers. Souvenirs shops beaconed for last minute decisions. Rumor has it that after the last ferry leaves, the island slows down and the locals party up. 
While waiting for the ferry, an Italian tourist engaged me in conversation. With  few phrases and short sentences, it felt good to parlare in Italia. 

Back at the hotel, we had time to take a dip in the pool, soak in the last bit of Sorrento sunshine, and then prepare for  dinner in the luxurious Sorrento Palace. Again Joe outdid himself in planning the menu. Nightcap drinks on the moonlit terrace and then up to pack suitcases for early departure the next day. Torna a Sorrento. Yes, indeed. 

Pompei is a ghost of a town - a town buried in ash and soot when Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD. But that ash also preserved the city. and now we have  an appreciation of daily life in the Roman city. There was a lot to see and we were grateful to have our tour guide, Antonella, who highlighted important details of streets, buildings and merchants: everything from tools and tables, baths and brothels to paintings and people was frozen in time.  A little misstep and I got separated from my group. But thanks to the Carabineri,  I found my way back down and waited where the guide would return the headsets at the end of tour. However, with so many tourists and groups weaving in and out, no one even missed me. A little disconcerting, but at least I wasn't covered in ash for all eternity.

Our next treat was a visit a mozzarella factory (farm). We walked down 168 steps to enter the demonstration and dining area of Fattoria Terranova. A long covered terrace with hanging baskets of flowers, peppers and tomatoes set the stage for learning the process of making the cheese. We cheered as Joe took a turn at churning and braiding, and were then treated to a parade of amazing dishes with a limoncello cake finale. 

In the early evening some of us attended Mass at a Catholic Church in the area of Piazza Tasso. The well-attended Mass was held outdoors in a courtyard. I enjoyed being among the local parishioners hearing the prayers in Italian. 

A little later we met up with our group to attend the Sorrento Musical at the Tasso Theatre.  . Magical songs such as “Torna a Surriento,” "O Solo Mio," and lively Tarantella dances transported the theater-goers back in time to experience the daily life of southern Italians with scenes of fishermen at sea, buyers and sellers in the markets, festive feast celebrations, and love and romance played out from  balconies and moonlit promenades. 

Can it get any better than this? Fantastico. 

From Sorrento as our home base, we ventured out to islands, ruins, farms and factories. 

 The first was to the mountainous island of Ischia, the largest island off the coast of Naples. Of particular interest there is the Aragonese Castle located on a massive rock, connected to the  island by a manmade stone bridge. It was built to protect residents from volcanic eruptions and pirates. It had also been home to a Clarisse order of nuns who had an interesting yet eerie practice of praying with their decomposed  sorelle.  

After a leisurely stroll through the main street filled with shops, boutiques and local crafts, we headed to a farm for lunch in the private grotto-like cellar of Fernando, who along with his wife, prepared and served a truly farm-to-table meal topped off by a very potent rum cake. Thanks to Alessandro we had a  designated driver. 

Another breath-taking view was in store. At the very top of the island, a caffe and bar offered refreshment, relaxation and a panoramic view. Limoncello and seaside scenery - perfect together. 

Then back in the bus, down the steep, curvy road to La Mortella, a garden paradise with  tropical plants, flowers, wildlife and colorful birds. Google it to find out its interesting history of  ownership and permeance today. 

But the day was not over. We returned to Sorrento with energy left for some shopping, pizza and local musicians in Piazzo Tasso.  Una giornata molto buona!

We traveled by bus from Rome to Sorrento with a few stops along the way. The Naval Museum at Lake Nemi, famous for its sunken Roman ships, housed artifacts and stories of a "crazy" Emperor Caligua , Lady of the Lake Diana, and a long history of myths, legends, and scientific discovery. A service stop after another few hours of bus riding introduced us to an Italian version of a convenience stop - upscale says it mildly; perhaps, Wegmans'  merchandise with Wawa organization.  After a few more hours of riding with scenic views, we made an unscheduled stop in Naples at Gambino's for caffe and pastry. Putting my feet down here was thrilling.  My paternal grandfather came to America from Naples and although I still know very little about him, I felt like I made a connection. From our view along the Bay of Naples, we could see a misty Mount Vesuvius and the Sorrento Peninsula separating Gulf of Naples from Gulf of Salerno. 

Then we were on our way to beautiful Sorrento and from our bus came a chorus of ooh's, ah's, and camera clicks. No dozing off - there is too much to see along this windy picturesque road.

Our hotel, the Hilton Sorrento Palace was true to its name: welcoming, spacious, and a room with a sea view from our balcony. Dinner was at Ristorante Il Borgo overlooking the Bay of Naples. A delicious dinner enhanced by the sunset and topped off with  limoncello.  How can each day get better than the one before? Thanks Joe (our trip planner) for figuring that out. 
 

At sunrise, the Majella mountains take on a pinkish glow. Rising above the Adriatic Sea, the dazzling light begins its mountain climb for a captivating view: beautiful, peaceful, and serene. Pier Carla does her morning magic and the best cappuccino starts the day. With the Italian news in the background, a conversation leads to interest in Hilary Clinton. My cousins are very global in their thinking. 

A morning walking tour gets underway. Our first stop is to the home where Domenico's  father and grandfather lived. On the first floor of this family-owned property, a lovely flower shop spills its colors onto the sidewalk. Inside flowers, plants and a bit of jewelry offer a glimpse of the Italian's love of beauty in many shapes and forms. 

Our walk is informative, social, and pleasant. We meet folks along the way; some related and others long-time friends of Domenico. How honored I am to be shown the birthplace of my grandparents,  to visit the church where they worshipped, to enter the lovely homes of several relatives, and to claim this history as my own. 

To get to Terra Vecchia, we walked through La Porta del Sol.  This was the fortified entrance to the ancient city (curfews  strictly enforced back in the day). Well-kept stone houses peep out from the alleys along the narrow and only road that runs  the whole length of the village,  leading eventuallyto a a breathtaking view facing the mountains. Vecchio ma bello! 

We ride over to nearby Civitella, a town with a panoramic view of Fara. Again, Domenico and his Fiat handle the mountain climb and descent with no problema. 

Lunch at a trattoria outside Fara. No menus - they just tell you what they have on the way in. The salad tastes just like Mom's. No need for snacks when you get to eat these delicious meals. 

Sadly, it was time to say goodbye. In less than two days, I made a deep connection to the homeland of my grandparents, a lasting friendship with my wonderful cousins and a feeling of being just a few steps away from the heavenly skies over the mountains.

At the bus stop, Domenico made sure someone would show me where we had to change bus to continue on to Rome. Such a thoughtful guy. Arrivederci, Fara.

Paulo, our tour guide from Bravo Viaggi,  gave me specific instructions for getting to the bus station and purchasing a roundtrip ticket to Lanciano in Abruzzo.  After three and a half hours, the bus arrived on time and my cousin, Domenico Quartullo, was there to meet me. Then another 45 minutes by car and we arrived in Fara San Martino, the home town of my maternal grandparents. As we drove along the scenic road, the first sight of the Majella mountains took my breath away. Fara San Martino is a picturesque old town framed by the peaks of the mountains. Thankfully, Domenico had the required talent to navigate its narrow and steep roads in his snappy orange Fiat. 

Pier Carla welcomed us with a wonderful mid-day meal including perfectly cooked pasta, al dente. She told me timing was everything - a talent which she  certainly mastered. We ate in the open-air side room of their third-floor residence facing the mountains which seemed only an arms-length away. Grande momento!

Next on the agenda was a visit to the cemetery where many of our Quartullo relatives are buried. I felt honored to be among them and began to understand better the relationships that connect us. This was followed by a stop at the natural spring of the Verde River where we drank the cool crisp water, and according to Domenico "my second baptism." Then a walk up the mountain path to soak in the unspoiled beauty of the landscape. 

Our "light" supper took us to La Villetta where we  enjoyed the delicious pizza, and an opportunity for me to listen to La Bella Lingua  of the locals floating musically through the air.  
We extended our evening examining the family tree that Domenico constructed with linkage to five previous generations of Quartullo's. We could have talked all night, but with another  busy day ahead, I said my goodnights and went to sleep in the shadow of the  majestic mountains outside my widow. Buonanotte.